Having a widescreen rear-view camera display along with tire pressure monitoring, dashcam recording, route tracking, wireless Android Auto, Apple Car Play, additional trip readout, GPS compass and fast Android and iPhone app playback elevates motorcycle entertainment and safety when used correctly.

This week on EV Rider we’ve got a look at how to turn your motorcycle into a high-tech powerhouse with a review of the Aoocci C6 Pro all-in-one motorcycle unit.

Related: Aoocci C6 Pro at Amazon.com

The kit includes front and rear cameras, tire pressure and temperature monitors, video recording along with wireless Apple Car Play and Android Auto. It all comes in a well-designed, easy-to-install package that includes everything needed for most motorcycles.

Aoocci’s system is the most sophisticated safety and infotainment device I’ve yet to experience on a motorcycle.

In the EV Rider episode at the top of this post I break it all down, from an on-the-road review to a step-by-step look at the installation.

The kit includes the main 6.25-inch, 1,000-nit brightness display, 2-cameras, remote control, all hardware including mounts, spacers, zip ties and tools.

The cameras also record sound. They can be viewed while riding in either widescreen (front or rear) or split-screen (front & rear) view. The videos can be downloaded directly to your Apple or Android smart phone via a wifi-connected app that can be downloaded by scanning a QR code in the included installation manual. Videos can also be played back directly on the unit’s screen when stopped.

They include time and date logging that can be turned on or off. The camera display also shows trip mileage and the current heading such as north, west, etc.

The app lets you track your routes or review your video library so in the event of something noteworthy you can quickly play back your video on your phone and decide whether to permanently save it.

The C6 Pro also includes a built-in G-sensor that automatically detects collisions or sudden impacts. If an accident occurs, it locks and protects footage of the incident, which could be helpful in settling an insurance claim or establishing who is at fault in an accident.

I found the kit straight forward to install, but more importantly, it’s simple to use. In addition to the touchscreen, primary functions like activating the cameras or Android Auto/Apple Car Play can be handled with a simple button touch.

The touchscreen does work fine with my gloves but when I’m riding I really don’t want to be using a touchscreen. So instead I set up the apps I want to use, such as music and maps, before my ride. Then if I want to change or see something on-the-fly while riding, I use the remote control that I mounted on my handlebar.

Another great feature is the real-time tire pressure and temperature monitoring. The sensors are easy to install, they simply screw on, replacing your standard valve caps. They then send constant updates to the unit, which can be seen on the main screen. You can also set them to automatically alert you with an on-screen warning if the tire pressure drops below whatever psi you set.

The included app is also a nice touch. It allows you to record your routes. More importantly, it also brings up a directory of all the front and rear camera videos saved on the unit’s included 64 GB Micro SD card, allowing you to quickly download anything you want to save.

For you motorcycle bloggers out there, one thing you shouldn’t do is think of these cameras as a replacement for dedicated video gear. The quality is fine for the unit’s view screen and documentation of any noteworthy events, but its not going to look as good on a 70-inch 4K TV as a dedicated 4k action cam. The videos are recorded at 30 fps in 1080p resolution.

Wireless Android Auto and Apple Car Play work as expected. The unit will send a pairing command to your phone. From there the process works just like it would in a car. Bluetooth audio for calls and music is still piped into your Sena, Cardo or bluetooth speakers of choice.

For additional information, especially concerning the installation and a review of some of the unit’s functions, watch the video at the top of this post. For Zero SR/F owners: If you’re looking for even more detail on disassembling your SR/F’s plastics and some electronics watch this eMoto Design video.

Aoocci C6 Pro Specifications

EV Rider Editorial Policy Regarding Review Units

Aoocci provided EV Rider with the C6 Pro featured in this review but did not have any editorial input into this video or post’s production, nor did it see an advance copy of the video or post. EV Rider’s editorial policy regarding review units is available here for anyone that would like to review it.

The post Aoocci C6 Pro Transforms Motorcycling appeared first on EV Rider.

EVs and other modern vehicles are fantastic but connected cars and motorcycles do have a downside if you’re not prepared.

This week we’re taking a look at how to avoid a digital meltdown.

Many modern cars like Fords, Teslas and others let you skip key fobs in favor of smartphones – and that’s just the start.

Over the air updates, Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Electrify America, Tesla Superchargers and the list goes on and on. What would you do if your smartphone was lost, stolen or breaks while traveling?

I recently got a new phone and it suddenly occurred to me how much of my automotive and motorcycling life now depends on smartphones.

For example, I use my smartphone to control my Zero’s app and get firmware updates, while my Yamaha’s native navigation and infotainment functions are dead in the water without a smartphone.

Related: More How-Tos

Aoocci C6 Pro Transforms Motorcycling

How To Watch Tablo on Windows Or Meta Quest

How To Avoid Motorcycle Accessories Overload

Claim Up To $4k With Used EV Tax Credit

Don’t Buy Used EV Until Watching This

Shandoka: Converting Gas Motorcycles To EV

What To Know When Buying Electric Lawn Gear

Zero Motorcycles SR/F & SR/S Buyer’s Guide

How To Install Oxford Heaterz Motorcycle Heated Grips

Get Thousands Of Miles Worth Of Free Fuel

While that’s not terrible, drivers that don’t have a fob, card or key backup with them could end up stranded.

You might think, I’ll just run to the store, get a new phone, and be back in business.

But these days with all the passkeys, biometrics, passwords and more, it’s probably going to be more time consuming than you anticipated setting up a new phone, even if you’ve backed up your old phone and use Android’s, Apple’s or Samsung’s transfer apps.

In my case I used Samsung Smartswitch. It did a fantastic job reinstalling everything, right down to my homescreens, folders and smartwatch apps, but with more than a 100 gigs of data, it could take you hours or even days to perfectly duplicate your old phone if everything doesn’t go smoothly.

My new phone also has an eSIM, meaning I can log onto my cell phone carrier account and switch SIM activations if need be.

Of course cars and motorcycles are just a sliver of your digital life.

Multiply that out to things like email, smart homes and all the rest and you can see how time consuming it might be to recover.

Given all that, the next time you’re getting a new smartphone, it might be worth considering keeping the old one as a backup

First off, depending on your phone, it will be faster to set up the new one if you still have the old one since you can use USB-C cables to port most things over, which is likely going to be faster than a cloud-based restoration.

But more importantly, if you take the time to do it right, you’ll have an immediate backup device for just about everything in case something happens to your new phone. A lot of new phones are coming with electric SIMs that can be switched on and off online. That means, depending on your phones and your carrier, you may be able to quickly re-activate your old SIM without the need of reaching a help desk or going to a store.

Even if you don’t have a cell connection because you broke your phone, as long as you can find a wifi-zone, you should be able to log into your carrier’s website or app with your old phone and then hopefully transfer the SIM activation back over to the old phone. I personally haven’t needed to do this so I can’t guarantee it will work, but in theory if your carrier and your phones support SIM switching, it should.

Using your old phone’s Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connections, you’ll still be able to control most of your car’s or motorcycle’s connected functions, including Android Auto and Apple Car Play.

Of course if you can’t get your old SIM working, then apps that use Internet connections won’t work – unless your car has a hotspot that you can tap into.

Now you might just say, well I still have a keyfob and I can use my car’s native navigation and that might be true. But some vehicles these days either aren’t including native navigation, or if they do, after a trial period they require a subscription for full functionality. For example, if I wanted to use my Mustang Mach-E’s native navigation and still have live traffic and weather, I’d have to pay an $8 a month subscription.

If you can afford to, you can see how once once you figure in all the hassle, it may make more sense to keep your old phone as a backup rather than sell it or trading it in for pennies on the dollar. That’s what I decided to do. Hopefully I’ll never need to use my old phone as my primary phone again, but if I do, it will hopefully only take a few minutes to re-activate with all or most of the apps and accounts still in tact.

The post EV Essentials: Back up Your Digital Life appeared first on EV Rider.

This week we’re taking a break from EVs to do a quick how-to video on a popular over-the-air DVR.

Tablo is probably the slickest implementation yet of an over-the-air DVR, allowing you to watch and record broadcast TV shows, while easily fast forwarding through commercials.

While Tablo works great on most smart TVs, along with Android and Apple smartphones and tablets, the current 4^th-gen models don’t offer native apps for Windows 11 or Meta Quest VR headsets.

Luckily there’s an easy workaround on Windows with no hacking or other tricks needed –  assuming you have a modern Android smartphone.

Just open Phonelink, which is pre-installed on all Windows 11 PCs. Make sure your phone is showing. If it’s not, follow the set-up procedure.  Then click on apps and launch Tablo. See the video at the top of this post for the visuals.

Phonelink will launch the app right on your PC, pulling it directly from your smartphone. So now you can watch your local news or favorite broadcast shows right from your PC, anywhere in the house.

But virtual reality is a much better way to watch video when you’re by yourself. Thankfully, using Phonelink on Meta Quest works just fine – and again – no sideloading or other hacks are needed.

Horizon OS, which is the operating system that all Meta Quest headsets use, offers a variety of Windows virtual desktop solutions, including Horizon Workrooms and Windows app, both of which are free.

For this demo I’m using Horizon Workrooms but apps like Immersed, Virtual Desktop and others should work equally well.

Launch your favorite virtual desktop app on your Meta Quest headset and select your PC. If you haven’t already set it up, follow your remote desktop app’s directions. Now you can open Tablo via Phonelink and videos will play just fine.

Easy, right? For the most part yes, but here are a few things to keep in mind: Virtual desktops and Tablo are both bandwidth hogs so make sure you’ve got a strong, high-bandwidth wifi connection or ethernet to avoid lag or stuttering.

Even with plenty of bandwidth, could still run into issues with if you don’t have a high-end PC and Android phone, due to the graphic and processing requirements that the applications require to run smoothly.

But assuming your phone, PC and connection have the needed bandwidth and processing power, it should all work as expected.

One final note: Product software is constantly being updated so while I have personally verified everything works as expected on Sept. 17, 2025, it’s possible Android, Tablo, Microsoft or Meta will introduce a software update at some point that impacts whether these components continue working with one another. Ideally we’ll see Tablo introduce native applications for Windows 11, Meta Quest and other XR devices at some point.

For any of you looking for an in-depth review of the Tablo unit and its software, see fellow YouTuber Antenna Man’s video review below.

‘By the way, for you MetaQuest experts thinking, “why didn’t he just sideload Tablo via SideQuest?” I tried but Tablo is one of those Google-specific .APKs that fails to install on Meta Quest’s fork of Android. If you figure out a workaround let me know in the YouTube comments.

And speaking of XR (extended reality), just in case you didn’t know, some EV Rider episodes are available in 3D spatial video on any VR headset or MR glasses that support YouTube VR. Some 360-degree episodes and clips are also available.

• EV Rider 3D Spatial and 360-degree episodes

In-Depth Review Of Tablo From Antenna Man

The post How To Watch Tablo on Windows Or Meta Quest appeared first on EV Rider.

If you’ve got any motorcycle-powered accessories acting a little wonky don’t automatically assume there’s a problem with the device. It might be something else entirely.

My Android Auto navigation screen started acting up during a long ride. It would go out sporadically or the touchscreen would stop working, so I mistakenly assumed something was wrong with the product.

Related: Link to the INIU portable charger featured in this post’s video

What was the real problem? It turned out the unit was occasionally trying to pull more power than the bike’s USB port could deliver.

These days we’re asking more of our bikes’ electrical systems than ever before with second screens, lighting kits, aftermarket heated grips, cameras and more.

For example, a heated vest alone can pull more than 6 amps. Now add in front and rear cameras along with whatever other aftermarket accessories you’re running off the 12v battery or an accessory port and you can see where problems might crop up.

In my case the navigation unit that seemed to be acting up was a review unit so I contacted the manufacturer, which quickly shipped another one. To my dismay, the second unit displayed the same symptoms. But here’s the thing, it wasn’t the manufacturer’s fault. A quick shoutout goes to Ottocast for sending the second unit to allow me to rule out any issues with the actual product.

After doing some testing with both units I soon discovered my Zero Motorcycles SR/F’s USB ports weren’t putting out enough consistent voltage to reliably run the Ottocast’s screen. My guess is when running multiple apps the screen’s processor probably wanted just a bit more power than the USB outlet could deliver, causing the unit to reboot, freeze or temporarily shutdown as a safety precaution.

That got me thinking; there’s probably quite a few motorcyclists out there pulling more power from their electrical systems than they were originally designed to handle.

So what’s the fix? In my case I decided on a cheap, easy solution: a small 10,000 mAh portable Power Bank that can put out 22.5 watts.

That’s enough power to run most navigation units while simultaneously charging a smartphone. In the case of my Zero SR/F it’s as simple as keeping the portable battery in the trunk, although placement is obviously going to vary depending on your motorcycle. For example, an ideal location for the small battery on my Yamaha Tracer 9 GT+ would be under the passenger seat.

My portable battery includes pass-through charging, which means I can still slow charge the portable battery off my bike’s USB while it’s delivering power to my other stuff. So on those long or multi-day road trips you don’t need to worry about something running out of a charge before reaching your destination.

Think of it more as a battery booster. This way you can save your 12v battery for the big stuff. For example, maybe you’ll want to use it to power some aftermarket heated grips, a heated vest and auxiliary lighting, but add the secondary battery in case your bike’s native electrical system is taxed trying to keep up with the demands of all those aftermarket accessories drawing power at the same time.

While most modern bikes can easily handle charging a smartphone, if you’ll be adding a lot of power hungry accessories, an auxiliary power supply might just be worth considering.

The post How To Avoid Motorcycle Accessories Overload appeared first on EV Rider.

If you’ve been thinking about buying a used EV you might be surprised to find out that in many cases they’re one of the more affordable options right now.

While EVs on average tend to be more expensive than equivalent gas cars they also depreciate faster.

Even better, if you’re in the market for a gently used car, quite a few EVs and plug-in hybrids qualify for up a federal tax credit up to $4,000.

Program details and list of used EVs and plugin hybrids that may qualify for the credit.

Given what’s going on right now in Washington, this may be one of those cases where if you want to score the best price you might want to act sooner rather than later. Here’s why.

President Trump has made it clear he wants to get rid of EV tax incentives and with a Republican majority in Congress it seems likely the $4,000 tax credit will be rescinded this year.

The credit currently equals 30% of the sales price, with a maximum credit of $4,000. For example, if you buy an used EV for $12,500, the credit would be $3,750.

Since the program is primarily meant to help lower and middle income Americans, the credit also has an adjusted gross income cap of $150,000 for married couples and $75,000 for single filers

The next wildcard is tariffs. Because new car prices are expected to rise due to the president’s tariff war, used car prices are expected to be pushed up as well, as shoppers search for more affordable alternatives.

To qualify for the tax credit, the used EV can’t be sold for more than $25,000.

Given how fast EVs have been depreciating, there are a surprising large number of EVs that can be had under that cap.

For example, some of the older Mustang Mach-Es are now selling for $25,000 or less. It’s even possible to find some luxury EVs like Tesla’s Model S, Jaguar’s I-Pace or Cadillac’s CT6 plug-in hybrid under $25,000.  

If you’re looking for a gently used, low mileage entry level EV like a Chevy Bolt or Kia Niro, you’ll have no problem sliding in under the cap.

All modern EVs cars, trucks and SUVs come with at least an 8-year, 100,000-mile battery warranty, and many warrant their powertrains for longer periods than gas engines and transmissions.

For all you motorcyclists out there, sorry but the credit doesn’t apply to EV motorcycles.

All the details and a full list of EVs that may qualify for the credit is available on the U.S. Department of Energy’s website.

If you’ve found this episode of EV Rider useful please give it a like.

The post Claim Up To $4k With Used EV Tax Credit appeared first on EV Rider.

Although I’m a long-time EV owner, until recently there’s one thing I would have never thought to check if I was buying a used EV. 

Recently a friend of mine bought an EV motorcycle. He soon plugged it in at a Level 2 charger and found he was only getting half the charging speed the station was putting out. That’s because in his case one of the motorcycle’s two onboard AC chargers had failed.

It’s something that should have been discovered or disclosed before the sale. But it wasn’t, so with that in mind if you’re shopping for a used EV here’s something you’re going to want to do. 

Confirm the vehicle’s AC and DC charging systems are working properly.  

If the EV doesn’t doesn’t come with a bumper-to-bumper warranty try to test the vehicle’s charge rates at two different charging stations during a test drive if that’s possible. 

Why two? Most – but not all – EVs have two different charging systems: One is an onboard AC charging inverter and the other is DC fast charging. Each charging system has a rated peak charging speed that varies from model to model. 

Level 2 AC chargers are common in homes and shopping centers while DC chargers are often used during longer interstate road trips.  

If the seller won’t let you test charge it, get something in writing guaranteeing the charging set up works properly and stating the seller will pay for any needed repair if it doesn’t.  

For example, the Ford Mustang Mach-E in the video at the top of this post has a peak AC charging speed of 11kW and a peak DC Charging speed of just over 150 kW. 

The Zero Motorcycles SR/F in the video has a rated peak charging speed of 6.6 kW, although with charging losses figured in, it will usually only peak at 6.4 or 6.5. In the case of this Zero, different models have different charging speeds, depending on how they are optioned. 

That sometimes holds true for cars as well with base models occasionally having slower charging speeds than fully optioned ones. 

The main thing to confirm is that the car or motorcycle starts charging as expected.

Different models have vastly different charging speeds depending on a variety of conditions so I can’t tell you exactly what speed you’re looking for, but here’s a general rule of thumb. If you’re at a Level 2 charger, with rare exceptions, the EV should charge at a rate above 5 kW.

If you’re at a DC charger it should charge at a rate of at least 40 kW, unless the battery is above 80 percent of charge.  

These are just general guidelines and there are exceptions. For example, DC-enabled motorcycles charge much slower than cars due to their smaller batteries and some slow Level 2 chargers are limited to 3.5 kW of charging speed – or even a bit less. 

Once the charging session begins you should be able to see the speed you’re getting either on your vehicle’s display, its app or on the charging station display. The speed should quickly climb and then settle in.  

If a charge rate appears to be really slow, it’s time to start asking the seller why. If the seller doesn’t have answers it might be time to walk way, unless you are able to determine the problem lies with the charging station.

The odds of running into this issue are small but since many used EVs are sold “as is” it’s better to be safe than sorry.

If you’re new to EVs and need a more detailed explanation or have a question about a specific brand, drop me a note in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer your question. If you’ve found this episode of EV Rider useful please subscribe to the EV Rider YouTube channel. It’s free.

The post Don’t Buy Used EV Until Watching This appeared first on EV Rider.

Motorcyclists have been modifying their bikes for generations. Now an exciting new chapter is emerging with a North Carolina business launching a patented EV conversion system that allows owners to make the switch to EV without giving up their beloved classics. 

Shandoka Electric Motorcycles, based in Mars Hill, has developed an all-in-one system that includes everything needed to do the conversion. 

The company is starting with Japanese bikes like the Yamaha XS 400 Maxin and Kawasaki Ninja 250 because of their frames were developed. 

“The real trick to this bike is that it’s got a structural engine. So because there’s no frame that goes beneath the engine itself that lets us use our patented adapter to convert the bike to electricity and maintains the structural integrity of the bike, but gives you plenty of freedom,” said Shandoka Electric Motorcycles Founder Ernest Eich, discussing the first Yamaha to be converted. 

Shandoka is offering turnkey conversions that include everything from the battery pack to hub motor to BMS (battery management system), relays and all the rest. 

So what about converting V-Twin bikes like Harley and such? They’re on the roadmap as well. Ernest says his company is made up of a group of designers, tuners and welders.  

There are a variety of price points, battery sizes and custom fabrications available to ensure customers can spec their EV-conversions exactly the way they want them. 

Shandoka claims its patented system is future proof by allowing relatively quick battery swaps when even better battery technology emerges five or ten years down the road. 

EV Rider was the first media outlet to take the very first converted Shandoka Electric Motorcycle for a spin. It felt great; with brisk acceleration, excellent balance and competent braking.     

What about battery sizes, range, cost, the BMS (battery management system), availability, turnaround time and so many other questions? 

Those questions and many are answered in the video at the top of this post, which gets into the nitty-gritty tech details. 

I thoroughly enjoyed my time on Shandoka’s very first EV motorcycle and look forward to following the company now that it’s made it from the research and development stage to the point of taking orders on builds to deliver to customers. The turn around time for customers at the time of this post was approximately 3-4 months.

While Shandoka is inititally taking it slow to make sure its first customer builds are up to snuff, it’s also accepting dealer and builder inquiries as it also looks beyond the initital ramp up. For anyone interested in becoming a Shandoka Electric Motorcycles dealer or builder, fill out the form on Shandoka’s website.

If you enjoy the video, please give it a like and subscribe to the EV Rider YouTube channel so I can bring you more adventures in EV motoring. 

The post Shandoka: Converting Gas Motorcycles To EV appeared first on EV Rider.

If you’ve been thinking about upgrading your lawn gear to electric power, this episode of EV Rider is for you.  

The best advice I can offer you if you’re just starting out in either buying lawn gear for the first time or switching to electric is to think in terms of a unified system.

What I mean by that is consider getting as many electric lawn tools as possible with the same battery system.

For example, in my case I have four Black and Decker products; a blower/vacuum, hedge trimmer, tree branch trimmer and edger that all use interchangeable batteries.

In my case I did spread out the purchases over several years, and yes, the technology did change so in the end I purchased a Ryobi lawn mower that uses a different battery system. It’s OK, but it’s not ideal, because if you can stick to one brand you may be able to utilize those batteries across more appliances, which will save you money since you won’t have to buy as many batteries, which is the biggest expense when switching over to electric.  

In terms of features, I’m sure you’re going to want to look for the same things that you would look for in gasoline-powered gear. In my case when it came to the lawn mower, I wanted one that was self-propelled, included bagging, was light as well as easy to fold up and put away in the garage.  

Using electric lawn gear saves me time. I don’t have to go get gas anymore and maintenance is practically non-existent since there’s no oil, air filters or spark plugs.

As an example, the Ryobi electric lawn mower I own is easier to keep going. With gas, I would run out of power about 3/4 of the way through mowing. I would have to head back to the garage to get more gas. Since the Ryobi holds two batteries, if one runs out, I just switch to the other in about 15 seconds and keep mowing.

If you do switch to electric, your ears are going to thank you because electric motors like the ones found on mowers, blowers, etc., are quieter gas engines.  Another great thing about having electric lawn gear is the batteries can be also used as a generator in the event of a power outage.

In my case I bought a 300-watt inverter, which cost me about $70 at the time I purchased it. It’s enough to run my TV, speakers, DVD player and a light for about an hour-and-a-half. Much more powerful inverters that can even run refrigerators are also available, such as Ryobi’s 1,800-watt portable generator.

I’m purposely avoiding recommending specific gear in this post because I haven’t personally tested all the brands out there but here are a few tips to get you started:

• Pick a brand that you know you can get serviced if anything ever goes wrong. This is one of those times where you might want to buy from your local brick-n-mortar like Lowes or Home Depot in case you ever have a warranty claim. 

• In the case of my lawn gear, I went with Ryobi and Black and Decker but some other well-known electric brands to consider include Ego, Greenworks and Workx. 

• Also, a quick note about batteries. Don’t let the high price of OEM batteries scare you. For example, a factory OEM replacement Ryobi battery for my mower cost $189 at the time of this post based on a Home Depot price check I did. But I bought an aftermarket battery on Amazon for $79 and it’s still going strong after two years. Better yet, the aftermarket battery has a longer run time. So be sure to shop around.  

In terms of upfront costs, you may find some items are more expensive than equivalent gas-powered gear but remember you’re not going to need to buy gas, oil, air filters or spark plugs.   

In terms of fuel costs, think pennies instead of dollars. Electricity is much cheaper. For a look at exactly how much cheaper, check out this video:

If you’ve got any questions about switching over to electric lawn gear, post them in the comments on my YouTube channel and I’ll do my best to answer them and if you’ve found this video or post helpful, please give it a like and subscribe the EV Rider YouTube channel.

The post What To Know When Buying Electric Lawn Gear appeared first on EV Rider.

If you’re considering buying a used Zero Motorcycle, here are few shopping tips to consider. 

There’s no getting around the fact that electric motorcycles are expensive, but the good news for preowned shoppers is when it comes to buying a Zero, like many of their gasoline counterparts, their value tends to drop pretty fast on the used motorcycle market, making a gently used Zero a potentially attractive proposition, especially when the low fuel and maintenance costs are figured in. 

For the purpose of this post and video I’m focusing on used bikes from the latest generation of Zeros. This generation platform first debuted in 2019 for the 2020 model year with the SR/F and has since expanded to the SR/S, SR and DSR/X. 

Related

• Owner Review: Zero SR/F After 2 Years & 10K Miles
• Zero Motorcycles SR/F Vs. Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT

Zero also offers a variety of lower priced models based on earlier platforms. But those bikes are topics for another day. 

The majority of the SR/F and SR/S bikes that have hit the used motorcycle market have 14.4 kWh batteries, although the newest bikes now come with a larger 17.3 kWh battery.  

When considering a used Zero perhaps the most important thing to try to figure out is its battery health. Unfortunately, it’s also the toughest thing to evaluate without special equipment. But there are a few questions you can ask and things you can look for that will provide some clues. 

When you’re heading out on a test ride set the bike’s trip odometer to zero. If you don’t know how, ask the owner to reset it for you. Take notice of how quickly the battery drains as compared to the miles ridden.  

If you’re riding the bike in mild or warm temperatures at speeds of 55 miles per hour or below, expect to see a range loss of roughly one percent per mile if it has the 14.4 kWh battery. If the percentage loss is much higher than that it might be a sign of a battery that’s had a hard life or is degrading faster than usual. 

If you’re leaning hard into the throttle during the test ride, then this idea won’t work since you’ll naturally be chewing through the charge at a much faster rate. Batteries are also sensitive to temperature so if you’re riding on a cold day expect lower range. 

Ask the owner of the motorcycle about his, her or their charging habits.  

If the owner always charges to 100% and leaves the bike sitting for days or weeks at a time plugged-in, then the battery may have had a harder life. Zero says, “unplugging the charger when not needed ensures the best long-term health of your power pack.”  

Conversely, if you get on the bike and notice it’s at less than 30% of charge, that might also a bad sign. Zero specifically advises owners to never leave a power pack sit below 30% for extended periods of time. 

Another thing to check is whether the owner has been taking advantage of Zero’s built-in battery management program that allows riders to set their bikes to charge to a pre-determined level, such as 70 or 80 percent.  

If an owner has been using that feature, chances are the bike’s battery health is good. 

Ask the owner how much the bike is averaging per charge. If it’s anything below 70 miles, that might be a reason for concern.  

Riding style and temperature play a huge role in range so it’s not necessarily a deal breaker but if the owner is getting less than 70 miles of range, especially if it’s in city stop-and-go traffic, that’s a bad sign. 

I’d also recommend staying away from any Zero that hasn’t been garage kept since all bikes decay faster when kept outdoors. Exposure to constant rain, sub-freezing temperatures and baking hot sunny days can’t be good for the electronics or long-term battery health. 

Because Zero’s have so much torque, another item to carefully check is the belt. Look for cracks or any missing teeth.  

If you see any, just realize you’ll need to replace the belt soon to avoid risking having it snap during a ride.  

My 2020 SR/F is still on its original belt with more than 15,000 miles but I don’t lay into the full amount of torque it offers very often. 

Other general motorcycle inspection tips include the usual stuff such as checking for leaky brake lines, fork leaks, lights or electronics that aren’t working or abnormal tire wear. 

As with gas bikes, if the bike’s brakes grab abnormally that could be a sign of warped brake rotors or discs but also remember that Zero’s have anti-lock brakes so a bit of pulsing is normal.  

With the bike turned on, take note of any error messages. If the bike has any errors a tiny triangle logo will illuminate. If you see the triangle, you’ll want to use the bike’s mode function to navigate to data, then errors and jot down the error code or codes showing.  

If the owner can’t explain the error code, you can look up the code to see if it’s something to be concerned about by using these resources:

• Official Zero owners’ manuals
• Zeromanual.com error codes (wiki maintained by Zero owners)

Zero SR/F’s and SR/S’s come standard with a 3.5 kW Level 2 charger that also works with Level 1 household outlets. Make sure the charger still has its Level 2 NEMA 6-20 outlet adapter. 

You’ll want to verify the bike spools up properly when plugged into charge. If for any reason it doesn’t power up within a few seconds, that may be a reason to walk away on the spot, unless it’s a case of the owner having set up an off-peak charging profile.

Related: Off-peak charging could get you thousands of miles worth of free fuel each year

If the owner has set up a profile, ask the owner to disengage it so a charging check can be done. 

When it comes to used SR/F and SR/S models be sure to confirm what you’re getting. They’re offered in two trims, standard and premium. 

Premium models come with double the charging speed, which came from the factory with maxing out at 5.8 kW once charging losses are figured in. They can also reach 6.6 kW if an optional Cypher Store unlock is purchased from Zero.  

Correction: An earlier version this story incorrectly stated cruise control was not originally included on standard SR/F models. Zero has confirmed to EV Rider that it has in fact been included on all SR/F models since they were originally released.

2022 and newer SR/F’s and SR/S’s are all basically premium models when it comes to hardware. Now Zero sells software unlocks for things like a parking mode and heated grips while the SR has basically taken the place of the previous version of the SR/F standard model. 

You’ll want to confirm what Cypher store upgrades the bike has and check the prices on anything you want to add before agreeing to a purchase price. Zero has confirmed to EV Rider that Cypher store upgrades are good for the life of the bike and will transfer to the new owner. 

Another thing to know before buying a Zero is whether there is a dealer in your area.  

While any competent service technician should be able to handle things like a tire swap, when it comes Zero-specific parts and electronics, that’s likely going to require a dealer. Although, Zero did tell me it does partner occasionally with independent repair shops to support individual repairs.

Related: Zero Motorcycles dealer locator

You’ll get most of your firmware updates over-the-air but some owners, including me, have seen updates fail to install occasionally, requiring a visit to the dealer to keep your bike up to date. 

The good news is that you should be visiting the dealer much less often with a Zero as compared to gas bikes since there is no coolant, oil, or filter changes; or a need to mess with stuff like clutch, chain and valve adjustments. 

If you’ve got any questions about Zero Motorcycles, go ahead and post them in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them or at least point you in the right direction. 

If you’ve found this EV Rider post and video useful please give it a like and subscribe to my YouTube channel.   

The post Zero Motorcycles SR/F & SR/S Buyer’s Guide appeared first on EV Rider.

If you’ve ever wondered how to install heated grips on a motorcycle, this week’s EV Rider episode will answer your questions.

This how-to video takes you step-by-step through installing a pair of Heaterz Premium – Cruiser heated grips on a Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic.

Regardless of whether you have a Vulcan or will be purchasing a different brand of heated grips, the procedure will be similar on most motorcycles.

I purchased the Heaterz heated grips based on the recommendations of other motorcyclists.

They come with removable chrome end caps so that bar-end weights can be fitted on motorcycles where that’s necessary.

They feature five heat settings along with a safety turn-off switch built in. The safety switch provides low voltage protection (battery drain), in case you forget to turn them off.

If the voltage drops to 10.5V they will automatically turn off.

Oxford claims they will heat up to 122 degrees.

The kit includes a thorough installation guide and all parts needed for the install; including glue, wiring and zip ties.

Standard house tools that include a Phillips head screwdriver and small hacksaw or knife will be needed in most installation cases.

The kit used on the Vulcan 900 Classic LT is linked. If you have a different motorcycle be sure to confirm your handlebar size before ordering.

Other sizes of the heated grips can be found here.

The post How To Install Oxford Heaterz Motorcycle Heated Grips appeared first on EV Rider.